Disaster Preparedness For Pets

Taking your animals with you in an evacuation requires some forethought and planning. Don’t wait until it’s too late.  

Each year we see disasters in various forms all across the country.  Tornadoes, floods, fires, hurricanes, blizzards and more can disrupt our lives and our families.  In many families, that includes our animals.  

When you consider gas leaks or toxic spills and acts of terrorism you realize anyone can be affected by a disaster.  You could be told to leave your home for a short time, only to find the situation keeps you away from your home for weeks.  If you do not take your animals with you, an evacuation of your family could mean another disaster back at home with your pets.  

Because events occur quickly and decisions are made fast, you need to have a plan for yourself and your animals in case of a disaster.  

First, acquaint yourself with the types of disasters that can affect your area.  Then develop an evacuation plan for your animals.  For pets this may mean putting the small animals in a carrier and into the car for immediate evacuation.  For farm animals, you would need to have an appropriate trailer handy and know where you can take each animal to be away from the danger and where they can receive proper care.  This takes some thought and planning.  

In case you are not at home at the time of a disaster, place stickers on the front and back of your home or barn to notify neighbors or emergency personnel that animals are on your property and where they can find your evacuation supplies.  Include a list of the number, type and location of all your animals.  Have leashes, carriers and halters near by and easy to find.

If you have a friend or neighbor that you trust and is willing to help, let them know where they can find a key to your property and pre-arrange with them to take care of your animals in case you cannot get back home for some time.  This is another reason to have supplies ready and easy to find.  

Be sure all your animals have proper identification. Rabies and ID tags are the best form for small animals. Microchipping is becoming a popular form of animal identification. An ID tag on a halter works well for large animals.  

An animal carrier and an evacuation kit are the two most important things to have ready in advance.  Have your evacuation kit near the carrier or cage and keep the items in it fresh. This allows for fast action.  For an evacuation all you would need to do is put your pets in the carrier and grab the kit.  An old overnight bag or back pack works well.  

Some of the items to keep in your animal’s evacuation bag: 

• Leashes

• Food

• Bottle of water

• Gloves and muzzles  

• Paper towels

• First aid kit
• Veterinary records 

• List of contact phone numbers including your cell and prearranged evacuation spot, your veterinarian, local humane society, and friends.  

• Towels for clean up or bedding

• Trash bags

• A letter signed by you giving others the authority to treat your pets in your absence.  

When an evacuation order is issued, what are the steps you should take?  

• Bring all pets inside

• Make sure they all have ID tags on

• Get all pets into their carriers

• Grab your evacuation kits

• Get everyone into the car

• Leave as soon as possible with your pets in the car

• Along the way, call your pre-arranged evacuation site.  

• Let friends know where you are going

When you return, what should you do? 

• Look around both inside and out for dangerous objects, animals or chemicals.  

• Let your pets have access to the indoor areas only until you can evaluate the outside areas for safety.   

• Don’t let animal engorge themselves with food or water when you get back.  Return to a normal routine slowly. 

• Let your pets rest and sleep

• If your pets are lost, call shelters daily and visit lost pet web sites often.  

If there has been any injury or exposure to questionable substances, call your veterinarian for a health exam.  

As we have seen in several wide spread disasters, many people will not evacuate without their pets.  Leaving your home with your family and pets in an emergency is smart, but takes pre-planning and thought.   

Plan now and be able to act fast when minutes count.  Your veterinarian can help you with this planning or visit www.VetNewsNet.com for video information.    

CANINE AND FELINE DEGENERATIVE JOINT DISEASE

By: Dr. Joni Kirch

Have you noticed that your furry canine family member may be having some reluctance taking their usual walks, seems stiff when they are getting up from lying down, having some difficulty jumping into the car for that cherished car ride they so much enjoy?  

Maybe they are limping or licking at one of their joints excessively.  Possibly not spending as much time as they used to with the family or they seem sore or even grumpy when touched?  What about your kitty?  Maybe they’re not jumping up on the counters like they used to (even though you tried so hard over the years to get them not to!), they seem a little stiff, resent being held, not grooming themselves as usual, or even having accidents outside their litter box?  Well, these can all potentially be signs of Degenerative Joint Disease (aka osteoarthritis or arthritis) in either your beloved canine or feline friend. 

Both dogs and cats very commonly suffer from arthritis pain. Did you know that degenerative joint disease (DJD), is the number one cause of chronic pain in dogs and cats?  DJD occurs when cartilage becomes damaged.  Cartilage is the gelatinous “shock absorber” on the ends of bones that helps decrease joint stress by reducing the impact on these bones.  The damaged cartilage results in inflammation which in turn leads to the destruction of the cartilage and then damage to the underlying bone resulting in discomfort and pain.

DJD is more often associated with older pets due to “normal wear and tear” of a joint over the years, but can also affect many young pets due to congenital joint abnormalities or even trauma.  The degree of wear and tear on a joint over the years can be affected by how athletic your pet is as well as obesity.  Congenital bone diseases that can result in arthritis include such things as canine hip dysplasia and OCD (osteochondritis dessicans, a hereditary defect in the cartilage).  DJD is best diagnosed by your veterinarian with a thorough history, complete physical exam as well as radiographs (x-rays). 

There are several key points to keep in mind when diagnosing and treating DJD.  Keep in mind that there is no cure for arthritis and only control. The goal is to help alleviate patient discomfort, decrease further degenerative changes, and to help keep the joints as pain-free and as functional as possible. Treatment often involves what is termed as a multimodal approach, meaning that several approaches for treatment are utilized to obtain better results than a single treatment option alone.  Your veterinarian can tailor a treatment plan that best meets the needs of your pet by considering any of the following factors or treatment options:

    1.      Signs of arthritis may be subtle and easy to overlook. This is especially true for cats since they may not show obvious signs of lameness.  Many times an owner just thinks their cat is aging.   Clinical signs that your cat may have arthritis are usually in the form of behavioral or lifestyle changes.  As stated above, they may be reluctant or unwilling to jump, may not jump as high, may seem a little grouchier, possibly have accidents outside the box, and may not groom themselves as much because it hurts to twist their bodies in all sorts of angles and directions like they used to when they were young and more flexible (kind of sounds like what happens when we age as well!) 

2.      Early treatment is very important to help slow down the progression of this disease.  Starting pets on chondroprotective agents (such as Adequan) or nutraceuticals (such as glucosamine/chondroitin sulfate) early can help keep the joint healthier by supporting the cartilage structure, prevent further deterioration, and decrease inflammation and free radical damage.

3.      Keeping your pet at a healthy, lean body weight is absolutely critical not only to help prevent the development of DJD but also to help slow down the progression if it develops.  Your veterinarian can give you your pet’s body condition score.  A normal healthy weight to strive for is a 5/9.  They can also give you advice to achieve this goal if your pet has a score of greater than 6/9. 

4.      Proper exercise helps to maintain muscle mass and decrease pain.  Low-impact exercise such as swimming or walking through shallow water is best but if that is not an option, then daily leash walking or controlled jogging can help as well.  Controlled exercise is good but it is also important to rest your pet if they are having any type of flare-up of pain associated with arthritis for a few days until they are feeling better.

5.      Prescription medications to help with inflammation and pain are very useful as arthritis progresses.  There are many options for various non-steroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDS) such as deracoxib (Deramaxx), carprofen (Rimadyl), etodolac (Etogesic), etc.  These medications are typically used in dogs when arthritis pain advances and your pet appears painful.  Some dogs may respond to one NSAID over another and your veterinarian can decide what may be the best medication for your pet.  Keep in mind that these medications can have potential side effects such as gastrointestinal disorders and liver or kidney dysfunction. It is therefore recommended if your pet is on any NSAID to have blood work done routinely to monitor for any problems and to watch closely for any signs of gastrointestinal disease, changes in appetite, changes in urination or drinking, etc. 

6.      It is very important to note that cats are very sensitive to NSAIDs and many of them can be very toxic or have serious side effects.  Therefore, it is recommended that you never give your cat any type of NSAID and only follow the advice of your veterinarian when considering giving your cat any type of medication.  It is also critical that it is very accurately dosed to help avoid serious, even life-threatening side effects.

7.      Therapeutic diets enriched with omega-3 fatty acids, chondroitin and glucosamine can also be very  important in helping to manage DJD.  They may help with reduction of inflammation and aid in the management of arthritis.  One example of such a diet is Hill’s J/D. 

8.      Acupuncture and massage can also be alternative therapies that can provide additional pain control to help improve your pet’s quality of life as the arthritis advances.

A cat receiving acupuncture.

9.     Taking radiographs of your large breed dog while they are young (typically when they are under anesthesia for spaying or neutering) is a great time to assess whether they may have canine hip dysplasia or at risk for developing DJD in their hips as they age.  There are also options to have your dog’s hips screened either through the Orthopedic Foundation of America (OFA) or via PennHip.  These methods of radiographs allow you and your veterinarian to know whether your dog’s hips are normal.  This is very important to know especially if you have any intentions to breed your purebred dog.

Although arthritis is a very common problem amongst dogs and cats, it is not the only cause of pain or discomfort.   If you are concerned that your pet is experiencing any pain or discomfort, please contact your veterinarian as soon as possible to set up a consultation with them to determine if DJD is the cause or if there may be another reason for their discomfort.  With a thorough history, a complete examination and possibly radiographs, they can determine what is causing your pet’s discomfort and what options are available for treatment and management to help your pet feel better soon.

Doggy Dining at Creation Cafe benefiting Humane Society of Hamilton County

Dining along the canal in Downtown Indianapolis is a great way to spend a warm summer’s evening.  The fresh breeze coming off the water, the harmonious music, fantastic food and the company of good friends all combine to make an experience that’s hard to beat.  Is there ANY way to make these nights better?

Canal View from Creation Cafe

What if your loyal canine companion could join you?

Now, thanks to WTTS, Creation Café’ and Noah’s Animal Hospitals, your four legged friends can join you on the patio of Creation Café’ for your evening’s activities AND you can help out some less fortunate animals.  Every Tuesday from the middle of May through July, you and your dogs can sit back, enjoy the night air and know that 10% of your tab is being donated to the Humane Society for Hamilton County. 

Not only will you get to enjoy a famous Indiana pork tenderloin from Creation Café, your pet can get his or her own special dog entrée from the Café’s unique Canine Menu!  Imagine how happy your dog will be while slurping down the Lickety-Split Peanut butter flavored frozen yogurt to top off the meal!  You might be tempted to join him!

In all seriousness, there are a lot of pets in Central Indiana who are in desperate need of medical care, a good diet and, of course, a loving forever home.  With work and family responsibilities, we know that not everyone can get out and help at our local shelters and rescues.  That’s why this opportunity it just to great to pass up…you can help these pets simply by spending time with your friends, two AND four legged, listening to the impressive tunes of WTTS, enjoying amazing food and the glamour of Downtown Indy.

 

Don’t miss out!!  Come join us on the canal and help Noah’s Animal Hospitals, WTTS and the Creation Café make life a little better for the homeless pets in Hamilton County.

Sentinel is Back!!

Sentinel is Back!!

We are pleased to let you know that we now have the combination heartworm, intestinal parasite, and flea preventative Sentinel in stock!  We know many of our clients have anticipated the return of this product.  Each of our Noah's Hospitals now has this product for sale for your pet's heartworm, intestinal parasite and flea preventative needs.

Sentinel's sister product Interceptor, a heartworm and intestinal parasite preventative without flea prevention coverage, has been discontinued by the manufacturer Novartis.  Interceptor will no longer be available.  However, the price of Sentinel has decreased significantly.  We hope this helps you to protect your pet from serious and life threatening parasites, especially heartworms.

The other heartworm, intestinal parasite, and flea prevetative products we currently stock will still be available for your pet!  If you are happy with the current parasite preventative your pet is taking, there is no need to change.

Please remember, your pets must be current on an examination and yearly heartworm test prior to prescribing any heartworm prevetative product.  These guidelines are in accordance with the American Animal Hospital Association, the American Heartworm Society, and the Companion Animal Parasite Council.  As always, our first concern is protecting your pet safely and effectively.

Call your favorite Noah's hospital today to pick up Sentinel, or to schedule an appointment for your pet!

Heartworm Awareness

By Dr. Amber Leistner

Did you know…April is National Heartworm Awareness month?

As a pet owner, you have likely heard your veterinarian talk about heartworms. However, you may not exactly understand what they are, how they are spread, and why they are a danger to your pets. Noah’s Animal Hospitals are here to help answer your questions.

Heartworms are a type of parasite that live in the heart and blood vessels of some animals, including both cats and dogs. Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes. Once an infected mosquito bites your pet, some of the young (larva) stages of heartworms are transmitted to your pet. Over the span of a few months, these larva develop into long, spaghetti looking worms that live in the heart and vessels that supply blood to the lungs. Heartworms cause a long and progressive illness often resulting in heart and lung disease as well as a generalized detriment to overall health.

                    

The good news is that heartworms are completely preventable. Like many other illnesses, prevention of heartworm infection is much safer and more affordable than treatment. There are many prescription medications available from your veterinarian that can prevent heartworms as well as many other parasites. It is important to know that heartworm medications are prescription medications and can only be obtained from a licensed veterinarian; they cannot be purchased over-the-counter. These medications are indicated to give monthly, year-round. Heartworms were previously considered to be a seasonal and/or geographic concern. However, research has shown that our current lifestyles often allow the mosquitoes that carry heartworms to survive through the winter in homes, thus creating a year-round risk for our pets. Heartworms, and the mosquitoes that transmit them, can live in much more varied geographic areas than previously thought. Heartworm cases have long been identified in all 48 continental states but are much more common in our area of the mid-west and southern states.

A map of heartworm incidence in the US

Noah’s Animal Hospitals follow the recommendations of The American Heartworm Society in recommending annual heartworm testing for dogs and year-round heartworm and parasite prevention for cats and dogs.

That’s right; don’t forget about your cat. Many cat owners are not aware that heartworms don’t affect just dogs. While dogs are the primary host infected with heartworms, cats can be infected too. Heartworm prevention is just as important for your feline friend…perhaps even more important as we do not have an FDA approved treatment for heartworm infection in cats.

That brings us to treatment for dogs. How do you know if your pet has been infected and what can be done to treat the infection? The first step is having your dog tested at least yearly as recommended. Should your dog unfortunately become infected, it is important to discuss treatment with your veterinarian thoroughly. However, treatment often involves the use of a series of injectable medications used to kill the adult heartworms living in your dog’s heart and blood vessels. Again, heartworms are completely preventable and prevention is much safer and easier for both you and your pet.

Noah’s Animal Hospitals wants to help protect your pet from heartworms. If you have any questions regarding heartworms, testing, prevention, or any other medical concern please call our talented and dedicated medical staff. We are here to be the best friend of your best friend.

Check out the links below for more heartworm information:

HeartwormSociety.org

CAPCvet.org

Wildlife 911

Written by Dr. Andrea Quigley

     Spring time is here, and with it comes spring fever, the birds and the bees...and the baby bunnies, baby squirrels, and baby birds.....


   I have been volunteering in wildlife rehabilitation centers since I was in college.  It is a rewarding experience that is unlike any other in veterinary medicine.  There are not many people in this world who have been licked by a woodpecker, raised then released litters of Eastern Cottontails, or released a bird of prey back into the wild after nursing it through an illness.  Currently, as the education director for Providence Wildlife Rehabilitation, I am able to provide educational programs to community organizations using permitted educational animals.  These critters are nonreleasable, native wildlife that have been given special permission to be kept as ambassadors of their species.  


   At the veterinary hospital, we often get calls from concerned citizens during this time of year regarding wildlife.  Adult wild animals are out cruising for mates and searching for food to feed hungry babies back at the nest, while the first litters of baby mammals and clutches of baby birds are just starting to explore the world around them.  Unfortunately, this makes for more human-wildlife, dog-wildlife, cat-wildlife and car-wildlife interaction.  

A flying squirrel

   First, I’d like to dispel some myths about baby wild animals.  As many of us know, the mother-baby bond is one of the strongest bonds there is.  This is true for wild animals as well.  Wild parents will return to care for a healthy baby, even if a human has touched it.  If a baby has fallen from its nest, and is warm and not injured, the best thing for that baby is to return it to the nest.  No human can possibly provide the same care and nutrition for that baby as its animal parents can.  

A fledgling

   What about those teenager birds hopping around that can’t fly?  Those birds are generally described as being covered in feathers, but with very short tails. They can flutter, sometimes even get a little bit of lift to land in a low shrub or fence, but can’t fly up into a tree.  These birds are referred to as fledglings.  They are learning to fly and have to put in “ground time” while they figure out how their wings work.  Their parents are always near by and will continue to feed them and protect them.  Do your best to keep cats and dogs away for a few days while these teenagers are still on the ground.  In a few days, they will be flying into the trees like pros!  


   We also hear from families concerned that a nest of baby Eastern Cottontail bunnies has been orphaned.  Before you make that phone call, first do a test: place two pieces of string crossed like the letter X on top of the nest.  The next morning, see if the string has been disturbed.  Mother rabbits only feed in the early dawn and late dusk.  The remainder of the day, the babies are hidden under a pile of grass, leaves and fur.  If the strings are undisturbed, then the babies need to be kept warm and immediately taken to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator, as they are likely orphaned. If the strings no longer make an X, mom has been by to feed her kids.  


   Did your dog’s or cat’s keen sense of smell find the nest before you did?  Any baby bunny that has been in a dog or cat’s mouth is susceptible to infection and should also be taken immediately to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.  Fortunately, baby bunnies grow up quickly.  If you found the nest before your pet, you’ll need to keep your pet away from the nest for 2-3 weeks.  After that, the babies are weaned and should be baseball sized balls of fluff scurrying around your yard!    


A litter of cottontail bunnies

If you do find an injured or truly orphaned wild animal, follow these recommendations:

1. Safety first!  Do not handle a wild mammal that is acting aggressively.  While we rarely have reported cases of rabies in most species of wild mammals in Indiana, any mammal can carry rabies.  Bats, skunks and fox are the most common culprits in our state. 

2. Before you attempt to capture a wild animal, have everything you’re going to use ready and at hand.  This should include leather gloves and an appropriately sized container with air holes and a secure lid!  I have hunted down many a wild animal that was dropped off without a secure lid.  The phrase "wild goose chase" comes to mind.  Once you’ve collected everything you need, call a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.  

3. Keep the animal warm.  If it is an orphaned baby, it may be too cold.  Wild babies should feel warm to the touch.  

4. Do not offer food or water, unless your rehabilitator has instructed you to provide it. 

5. Remember that state and federal laws protect native wild species.  In many instances you have only 24 hours to transport this wild creature to a licensed rehabilitator.  

6. Enjoy the wildlife in your community.  It is such a privilege to be able to see the daily goings on in these animals’ otherwise rather private lives!

Baby fox squirrel nursing in a rehabilitation center

A Feline Friendly Home

Dr. Kristin Horazy

 

Ancestors of today’s domestic cats initially served as rodent hunters in small settlements at the dawn of agriculture.  Because of their usefulness, they were gradually assimilated into human society, unlike domestic dogs, who were selectively bred for desirable traits by humans.  Therefore, the domestication of cats hasn’t resulted in major genetic changes, so the form and behavior of house cats is not radically different from wild cats.  Both wild and domestic cats are solitary hunters of small prey, and as such, have specific needs different than those of dogs.  Cat owners need to be well-informed about the behavioral idiosyncrasies of cats in order to allow outlets for their “wild behavior” and make the indoor environment as stress-free as possible.  Following are some suggestions about how to make your home “cat friendly.”

Litter Boxes

An open, clean litterbox.

     When cats go to the bathroom indoors, it is important to provide them with a positive litter box experience.   A good rule of thumb is to provide one litter box per cat PLUS ONE, so there are different options for elimination.  The box should be big enough to move around in and to avoid stepping in previous eliminations.  Uncovered boxes are preferable in a multi-cat household, so there is always a way to escape if another cat comes up to the box.

     Research has shown that most kitties prefer unscented clumping litter (not clay).  However, it is more important to stick with whatever type of litter your cat prefers, as switching abruptly can result in litter box aversion.

     Litter boxes should be easy to access, but also provide privacy and an escape route if needed.  They should be located away from furnaces, air ducts, or other noisy appliances that can make sudden loud noises, which may startle your cat.

     Cats are a meticulously clean species, so litter boxes should be scooped daily!  If you find the odor of the box offensive, your cat probably does too!  The boxes should be emptied out and rinsed at least monthly.  Only use warm water and non-scented soap, as strongly-scented cleaners can be toxic or aversive.

Scratching

     Scratching is natural marking behavior used by cats in the wild to define their territory and announce their presence.  Scratching also helps to shed old cuticles and sharpen the claws.  Even declawed cats still retain the instinct to scratch. 

     Most cats prefer a rough material that shreds, such as sisal, cardboard, or carpet.  Some cats prefer to scratch on horizontal surfaces (carpets, rugs), while other prefer vertical surfaces.  You can experiment to figure out what types of objects your cat most likes to scratch.  There are a variety of different scratching posts available at most pet supply stores.

     Because cats scratch to mark their territory, they like to scratch in prominent places in the house.  Make sure you place your scratching posts in areas where people or cats tend to congregate, such as the TV room where the family spends a lot of time.  Do not try and hide the post in a far away corner or tucked behind furniture – your cat may not want to use it.

     You can train your cat to the post by placing it right next to the area where they already like to scratch and covering the inappropriate object with tinfoil or plastic carpet runners.  Posts that have a catnip toy built-in on top can be useful in attracting the cat to the post.  Once you have the cat using the post consistently, you can gradually move it a few inches every day to a suitable location. 

Catnip can be grown in your home garden, or purchased dried at a pet store.

  

Resting Areas

 

     Cats prefer to rest in safe, secure areas where they can get away from other people and pets.  They also need these safe areas when they are anxious about strange people or animals and loud noises.   Therefore, it is important to provide a refuge for your cat – an out-of-the-way area of the house where the cat has access to its essentials (food, water, litter box, etc).  You can place a comfy cat bed or folded towels in the area as well.  It is important to not disturb your cat when she is resting or hiding!

Perches

     As mentioned above, cats like to hide when they feel anxious or threatened.  They especially like to hide in high places, where they can get a clear view of their surroundings and where other people and/or animals can’t get to them.

     To help with this behavior, it is important that every cat have a perch somewhere in the house where they can view action indoors or outdoors from above.  This can be as fancy as a big store bought cat tower with multiple levels or as simple as a chair or table in front of a window.  You could even hang a bird feeder outside the window to attract birds or squirrels to keep your cat interested.

Toys

     The ancestors of domestic cats had to hunt insects, birds, and mice 10-20 times per day in order to survive.  Our indoor cats no longer have to hunt, but still retain the instinct to pounce and stalk.  Cats tend to like toys that mimic prey that they might hunt in the wild – toys that squeak, dangle, or dart.   You can determine your cat’s prey preference by buying several toys that resemble birds (toys with feathers or that are suspended in the air), mice (furry stuffed toys), and bugs (laser toy, a string with a knot on the end). 

      Alternate playing with each type of toy and see which type your cat responds to most.  Once you determine your cat’s prey preference, keep a batch of that type of toy and rotate them a few at a time to keep things interesting.