Dental Awareness

Dental Awareness

By Dr. Karen Roach

Our pets are part of our family!  We love them, feed them, provide fresh water, keep them warm and take care of all their needs, even sometimes before our very own!  In return, they are there for us, unconditionally.  Current vaccines, parasite preventative medications and pet friendly activities will help keep them healthy and long-lived.   However, there is one aspect of care that is often ignored…dental health. 

Most pets will suffer from some form of dental disease during their lifetime.  You don’t have to let this happen to your pet though!

Mild Gingivitis

Every pet owner should know some terminology concerning dental disease.  After all, the same forms of dental disease affect people as well.  The earliest form of dental disease is gingivitis.  This is an inflammation of the gums, or gingiva, adjacent to the teeth.  Gingivitis is caused by bacteria living in the plaque and tartar film along the gumline.  Gingivitis can occur anywhere in the mouth but it is most common on the outside surfaces over the upper teeth in the front and the back of the mouth.  Gingivitis first appears as mild redness along the gumline.  The gums can then become very red, swollen and even start bleeding.  If left untreated, this form of dental disease progresses to periodontal disease.

Advanced Stage of Periodontal Disease

 Periodontal disease occurs when bacterial infection of the soft tissues surrounding the tooth starts to involve the bone and attachments of the tooth.  Severe gingivitis that progresses to periodontal disease is irreversible.  Advancement of the disease can be slowed by dental cleaning and antibiotic therapy but the disease never really goes away.  That is why it is so important to prevent this stage of dental disease.  Periodontal disease leads to root exposure and sensitivity or pain (not just during chewing) and tooth loss eventually.  Also, chronic infection of the gums can allow bacteria to pass through to the bloodstream and then to the organs of the body, leading to disease there as well. 

Another important form of dental disease seen in pets is tooth fracture.  Dogs bite down on objects of all kinds with tremendous force.  Items, such as real bones (including knuckles), antlers, cow hooves, hard plastic toys, sticks and sometimes ice cubes are common causes of fractures of the largest chewing teeth in the back of the mouth.  Avoid these items as much as possible.  Opt instead for Veterinary Oral Health Council Approved dental chews. 

Cats more often break the fang teeth, called canine teeth, during falls or hunting.  If the pulp canal (the live center of the tooth that contains the nerve and blood supply) is compromised by the fracture, the tooth is lost.  It will need to be extracted or have a root canal to treat pain and infection.  More often, extraction is advisable since a tooth that has had a root canal eventually becomes more brittle and easily broken again.

In puppies and kittens, malocclusion can occur.  This is when the teeth do not line up correctly.  This can cause painful sores inside the mouth or the lips and lead to permanent damage of emerging adult teeth. 

All puppies and kittens have “baby teeth” called deciduous teeth until about 6 months of age.  Some puppies, especially smaller breeds and rarely kittens, can retain deciduous teeth inappropriately.  This is easily treated with extraction of the baby teeth, usually when they are under anesthetic during spaying or neutering.

Does your pet need dental care or even a professional dental cleaning?  Lift up your pet’s lips.  Are the teeth shiny and white or covered with a yellow film or hard tartar?  Is your pet’s breath pleasant or not?  Review your pet’s last veterinary health report card.  Follow your veterinarian’s advice!  Remember, the goal is to prevent disease in the mouth and avoid periodontal disease.  If a dental cleaning is recommended, do not wait.  Do not let a fear of anesthesia prevent you from caring for your pet’s teeth either.  The anesthetics and monitoring equipment used today are very safe and veterinary teams are often trained in identifying trends in vital signs so that they can prevent adverse events.  Also, it takes less time under anesthesia to clean and treat teeth that are not in a state of advanced gingivitis or periodontal disease.

Professional cleaning is the best way to take care of your pet’s teeth when your veterinarian thinks it is time to do so.  You can help at home too.  There are many products available for caring for your pet’s teeth at home.  The very best is to teach your pet to sit for brushing.  Our recommendation is to use a human toddler soft toothbrush.  Even the handle is soft so you cannot hurt your pet with it.  Use a flavored pet toothpaste or even just a tiny bit of baking soda mixed with water.  (Human toothpastes have more fluoride content than a pet should have.)  Focus on the outside surfaces of the teeth along the gumlines.   Do not try to pry your pet’s mouth open, just pull the lips back.


It is best to brush as often as possible, even daily.  This prevents the soft plaque film from hardening into tartar.  Tartar cannot be brushed away.  Give a small treat reward afterward.  Start with just touching the teeth and work up to brushing.  Even adult dogs can learn to sit for this!  Hills Pet Nutrition makes a prescription diet for helping to clean pets’ teeth while eating called t/d®.


Your veterinarian should have a variety of other options for your pet.  Try to use Veterinary Oral Health Council Approved products.

Go ahead and sit down with your pet.  Lift up the lips.  What do you see?  Now that you are dental-aware, you will know what to do!

Dental Special Month!

            From now through February 28^th, Noah’s Animal Hospitals are featuring our annual Dental Special Month! (OK, it’s longer than 1 month, but we are the generous type!)  If your pet receives a dental cleaning during our special, he or she will go home with a FREE bag of Hill’s Prescription diet t/d OR Hill’s Healthy Advantage food! Other promotional deals may be available during this time.  Call your Noah’s Animal Hospital today to schedule an appointment!

DOGS AND CATS CAN DEVELOP BREAST CANCER TOO! by Dr. Kerri Suhr, D.V.M.

DOGS AND CATS CAN DEVELOP BREAST CANCER TOO! 

By Dr. Kerri Suhr, D.V.M.

 

    

October is National Breast Cancer Awareness Month.  Did you know pets can develop this cancer, as well?

   

     In women, one in eight or nine will develop breast, or mammary, cancer.  In dogs that have not been spayed, that number jumps to one in four.   In intact female cats, mammary cancer is the 3rd most common cancer.  Most dogs and cats that develop breast cancer are intact females (have never been spayed), or females spayed after the age of 2-3 years, and are around 10 years of age at diagnosis.  In cats, Siamese cats are more prone to have tumors show up at a younger age than other breeds.  Male dogs and cats can also develop breast cancer, but it is not very common. 

     This sounds scary, but there is some good news!  In dogs, if a female is spayed before her first heat cycle ( which usually occurs between 8 months to a year of age) there is almost no chance of her developing breast cancer.  With one heat cycle, the percentage increases a little - to about 7%.  With multiple heat cycles, the incidence rises to one in four females developing cancer.      

Small mammary tumor in a dog.

     If female cats are spayed before they are 6 months old, they have a 91% lower incidence of mammary cancer.  They have an 86% lower rate of cancer if spayed before 1 year of age.  Studies also show that there is an 11% reduction of breast cancer if spayed before the age of 2 years.  Spaying after the age of 2 does not seem to lower the risk of mammary cancer in cats.  Having kittens does not seem to affect these numbers one way or the other. 

     Spaying your pet early is the best way to help prevent the development of mammary cancer later in life!

     Even though spaying later in life or after tumors have been detected does not seem to decrease the risks of developing mammary cancer, most of these cancers are at least early in the disease responsive to hormones.   It is thought by some to be advantageous to still spay them, as this may help them have a longer survival time after surgery.   

     If your pet happens to develop a mammary tumor, there are some important facts that you need to know:    

     50% of mammary tumors found in dogs are malignant, which means they are invasive forms of cancer with the potential to spread.  About 50% of malignant tumors of mammary glands have already spread ("metastasized") by the time they are detected. 

     The other half of mammary tumors in dogs are benign (noninvasive). In these cases, removing the tumor surgically will cure the problem. 

     Unfortunately, in cats, about 90% of mammary tumors are malignant.  These tumors in cats have a very aggressive nature, and spread quickly to lymph nodes and other surrounding mammary glands.  They can spread to the lungs and other tissues as well.     

      What should you do if you suspect a mammary tumor in your pet? 

     If you feel a hard lump in the skin on the underside of your dog or cat, call your veterinary office to schedule an appointment for further diagnostics.  Your pet will need to be examined.  Tests are usually run to determine whether cancer has spread to the lungs and lymph nodes, and to determine the overall health of the animal.  This usually includes x-rays, cytology (looking at the cells under a microscope) and bloodwork.  Fine needle aspirates that show cells under the microscope can help to determine if the mass is indeed arising from breast tissue, but this test is not great at determining a prognosis or continued treatment plan for mammary cancer.  In most cases, a surgical removal ("biopsy") with histopathology is necessary to determine what type of cells are present and if it is malignant or benign.  This means the mass is removed and is sent to a laboratory to be evaluated by a veterinary pathologist.   

Mammary tumor cells under a microscope.

     The biopsy will provide a lot of valuable information.  The pathologist will determine the type of tumor and whether it is benign or malignant.  This gives an idea of prognosis and the best type of treatment.  The biopsy also will determine if the margins of the skin  and tissues around the tumor are clean. (No signs of cancerous cells extending out to the edge of the removed mass.) This will determine whether a second surgery is necessary to remove remnants of abnormal cells.   

     Treatment recommendations depend largely upon the type of mammary cancer, the size of the mass, whether it has metastasized, and the overall health of the animal.  Removal of the mass with clear margins is often curative for benign masses.  For more aggressive tumors and tumors removed without clean margins, further surgery, chemotherapy and radiation therapy are adjunct therapies available after the initial surgery in dogs.  In cats, aggressive surgical removal of the mammary chain can lead to patients being cancer-free for up to a year in 50% of cases. 

     Every pet with mammary cancer is different, and no two cases are alike!  Your veterinarian is your best resource to help guide your decisions for your pet's care.  If you are concerned about a lump you have found in your pet, call your favorite Noah's veterinarian to schedule an appointment. 

references:

Chemotherapy for Malignant Mammary Carcinoma  ACVIM 2013; Antony S. Moore, BVSc, MVSc, DACVIM(oncology)

VeterinaryPartner.com  The Pet Health Care Library, Wendy C. Brooks, DVM, DipABVP

      

Help! My Pet Is Lost! What Do I Do?

     Unfortunately, we sometimes find ourselves in a situation in which our pet has become lost.  It can happen to anyone.  Maybe there was a hole in the fence in your back yard you didn't know about; maybe your pet scurried out the front door when you greeted a friend; or perhaps you were on a leisurely walk with your pet and the leash got away from you.  It is scary to know your pet is out there, alone and at risk for injury.  Here are some tips to help you become reunited with your best friend!

Microchip Your Pet!

     Microchips are tiny implantable devices that can be easily placed under your pets skin for identification purposes.  These tiny chips can be read by microchip scanners that most shelters and veterinary clinics have on hand.  Each chip has it's own alpha-numeric code that is unique to you and your pet.  When your pet is implanted with a microchip, you register your contact information with the microchip manufacturer.  When the chip is scanned, this code is displayed.  The microchip manufacturer can then be contacted with this code, and your contact information can be provided to the person that found your pet!  It is not a foolproof method of identification, but it is the best form of permanent identification your pet can have!

     Microchips are placed under the skin using a large bore needle.  The procedure to place the microchip takes only a couple of minutes, and can be done during a brief office visit to your veterinarian!  It is a small price to pay for peace of mind in case your pet is lost.

Scanning a pet for a microchip.

     Remember - most furry friends can be microchipped, as well as your feathered and scaly friends as well!

     Lastly, if you find a lost pet, please take it to the nearest shelter or veterinary clinic to be scanned for a microchip!  Odds are, the pet belongs to someone living in or frequenting the area you found the pet in need.  We know pets can look quite disheveled when they have been lost for even just a day or two.  Please don't assume their owners are bad, have not been taking care of them, or do not want them back - they may have been searching for them for quite some time!

   Check out these news stories that illustrate the success of microchipping:

     Dog missing for 2 years, reunited with owner due to a microchip!

     Dog found over 1000 miles away, and reunited with the owner!

     Pet missing for 2 years, happy reunion with owner!

     The Today Show - Cat missing for 5 years found in New York City!

Check Your Local Shelters

     Make phone calls and personal visits to your local shelters and animal control.  If you don't find your pet locally, consider travelling to shelters a bit farther away.  Sometimes, well-meaning good samaritans will pick up lost pets and take them to a shelter a bit farther away.  Arrive at the shelters well prepared, with photos and a written description of your pet that they can display or keep for their records.

Template for a lost pet poster

Call Local Veterinarians/Place Public Posters

     Many veterinarians will take a description of your lost pet to keep in their records to refer to if someone that has found a lost pet calls or takes it to the veterinary clinic.  Some hospitals also allow you to post your lost pet flier in their office.

     Visit grocery stores and coffee shops to post your lost pet fliers in their public posting area, and place posters in other areas as well!  Posting fliers in some areas, such as on light poles, may not be legal in your area, so check state and local laws!

Get Online!

     There are a host of websites you can visit to post lost and found pet information.  This list is not all inclusive, but a great place to start!

     If you are in the Indianapolis area, be sure to check out:  www.IndyLostPetAlert.com

     Also try:

     www.PetAmberAlert.com
     www.Petfinder.com
     www.CraigsList.com
     www.Pets911.com
     www.PetHarbor.com
    

     We hope you never have to experience a missing pet!  But if you do, we hope these ideas help you to reunite with your beloved friend.  And remember - if you find a lost pet, take it to the nearest shelter and have it scanned for a microchip.  After all, that is what you would want someone else to do if they happened to find your pet in need!

Summer Time Issues for our Pets

Each year, school kids anxiously look forward to the last days of school, eager to be away from the responsibility of homework and assignments.  Summer is a time for adventure, staying up late and enjoying the warm weather holidays, like the Fourth of July.

Unfortunately, our pets may not see things EXACTLY the same way!!

For many dogs, cats and even large animals, like horses and livestock, the noise and excitement associated with Independence Day is almost unbearable.  Local animal shelters report higher numbers of loose and roaming animals after the fourth of July and some pets have even been known to injure themselves in an effort to get away from the loud noises.  Even if your pet seems to tolerate fireworks, curious dogs have been burnt or hurt chasing sparklers, bottle rockets and even running towards a thrown firecracker!

Your pet may not be bothered by the noise of fireworks, but we still recommend that you avoid taking your pet to any area where people congregate to watch fireworks.  Even the best behaved pet might act erratically with the combination of large numbers of people and the loud booms, crackles and explosive lights.  You don’t want to risk losing your dog in a crowd of strangers OR the chance that someone might be bit.

Likewise, if you are heading out to enjoy the celebrations, don’t let your dog stay alone outside, even in a fenced in yard.  Our emergency hospital routinely sees cases of lacerations or other injuries caused by pets attempting to jump, climb or dig under fences.

If you know your pet will be bothered by the noises, or if you aren’t 100% sure, find a quiet interior room for your pet to stay the evening of the Fourth of July.  Sometimes, a radio or TV will provide enough distractive noise to drown out the worst of the fireworks.  In severe cases of noise anxiety, we might be able to prescribe a medication or supplement to help your pet relax a little bit. 

We all want to spend quality time with our pets and the summertime offers lots of opportunities for that.  Just remember that there are a few events where it’s best to leave the pet at home and firework celebrations definitely fit that bill!

Disaster Preparedness For Pets

Taking your animals with you in an evacuation requires some forethought and planning. Don’t wait until it’s too late.  

Each year we see disasters in various forms all across the country.  Tornadoes, floods, fires, hurricanes, blizzards and more can disrupt our lives and our families.  In many families, that includes our animals.  

When you consider gas leaks or toxic spills and acts of terrorism you realize anyone can be affected by a disaster.  You could be told to leave your home for a short time, only to find the situation keeps you away from your home for weeks.  If you do not take your animals with you, an evacuation of your family could mean another disaster back at home with your pets.  

Because events occur quickly and decisions are made fast, you need to have a plan for yourself and your animals in case of a disaster.  

First, acquaint yourself with the types of disasters that can affect your area.  Then develop an evacuation plan for your animals.  For pets this may mean putting the small animals in a carrier and into the car for immediate evacuation.  For farm animals, you would need to have an appropriate trailer handy and know where you can take each animal to be away from the danger and where they can receive proper care.  This takes some thought and planning.  

In case you are not at home at the time of a disaster, place stickers on the front and back of your home or barn to notify neighbors or emergency personnel that animals are on your property and where they can find your evacuation supplies.  Include a list of the number, type and location of all your animals.  Have leashes, carriers and halters near by and easy to find.

If you have a friend or neighbor that you trust and is willing to help, let them know where they can find a key to your property and pre-arrange with them to take care of your animals in case you cannot get back home for some time.  This is another reason to have supplies ready and easy to find.  

Be sure all your animals have proper identification. Rabies and ID tags are the best form for small animals. Microchipping is becoming a popular form of animal identification. An ID tag on a halter works well for large animals.  

An animal carrier and an evacuation kit are the two most important things to have ready in advance.  Have your evacuation kit near the carrier or cage and keep the items in it fresh. This allows for fast action.  For an evacuation all you would need to do is put your pets in the carrier and grab the kit.  An old overnight bag or back pack works well.  

Some of the items to keep in your animal’s evacuation bag: 

• Leashes

• Food

• Bottle of water

• Gloves and muzzles  

• Paper towels

• First aid kit
• Veterinary records 

• List of contact phone numbers including your cell and prearranged evacuation spot, your veterinarian, local humane society, and friends.  

• Towels for clean up or bedding

• Trash bags

• A letter signed by you giving others the authority to treat your pets in your absence.  

When an evacuation order is issued, what are the steps you should take?  

• Bring all pets inside

• Make sure they all have ID tags on

• Get all pets into their carriers

• Grab your evacuation kits

• Get everyone into the car

• Leave as soon as possible with your pets in the car

• Along the way, call your pre-arranged evacuation site.  

• Let friends know where you are going

When you return, what should you do? 

• Look around both inside and out for dangerous objects, animals or chemicals.  

• Let your pets have access to the indoor areas only until you can evaluate the outside areas for safety.   

• Don’t let animal engorge themselves with food or water when you get back.  Return to a normal routine slowly. 

• Let your pets rest and sleep

• If your pets are lost, call shelters daily and visit lost pet web sites often.  

If there has been any injury or exposure to questionable substances, call your veterinarian for a health exam.  

As we have seen in several wide spread disasters, many people will not evacuate without their pets.  Leaving your home with your family and pets in an emergency is smart, but takes pre-planning and thought.   

Plan now and be able to act fast when minutes count.  Your veterinarian can help you with this planning or visit www.VetNewsNet.com for video information.    

Sentinel is Back!!

Sentinel is Back!!

We are pleased to let you know that we now have the combination heartworm, intestinal parasite, and flea preventative Sentinel in stock!  We know many of our clients have anticipated the return of this product.  Each of our Noah's Hospitals now has this product for sale for your pet's heartworm, intestinal parasite and flea preventative needs.

Sentinel's sister product Interceptor, a heartworm and intestinal parasite preventative without flea prevention coverage, has been discontinued by the manufacturer Novartis.  Interceptor will no longer be available.  However, the price of Sentinel has decreased significantly.  We hope this helps you to protect your pet from serious and life threatening parasites, especially heartworms.

The other heartworm, intestinal parasite, and flea prevetative products we currently stock will still be available for your pet!  If you are happy with the current parasite preventative your pet is taking, there is no need to change.

Please remember, your pets must be current on an examination and yearly heartworm test prior to prescribing any heartworm prevetative product.  These guidelines are in accordance with the American Animal Hospital Association, the American Heartworm Society, and the Companion Animal Parasite Council.  As always, our first concern is protecting your pet safely and effectively.

Call your favorite Noah's hospital today to pick up Sentinel, or to schedule an appointment for your pet!

Heartworm Awareness

By Dr. Amber Leistner

Did you know…April is National Heartworm Awareness month?

As a pet owner, you have likely heard your veterinarian talk about heartworms. However, you may not exactly understand what they are, how they are spread, and why they are a danger to your pets. Noah’s Animal Hospitals are here to help answer your questions.

Heartworms are a type of parasite that live in the heart and blood vessels of some animals, including both cats and dogs. Heartworms are transmitted by mosquitoes. Once an infected mosquito bites your pet, some of the young (larva) stages of heartworms are transmitted to your pet. Over the span of a few months, these larva develop into long, spaghetti looking worms that live in the heart and vessels that supply blood to the lungs. Heartworms cause a long and progressive illness often resulting in heart and lung disease as well as a generalized detriment to overall health.

                    

The good news is that heartworms are completely preventable. Like many other illnesses, prevention of heartworm infection is much safer and more affordable than treatment. There are many prescription medications available from your veterinarian that can prevent heartworms as well as many other parasites. It is important to know that heartworm medications are prescription medications and can only be obtained from a licensed veterinarian; they cannot be purchased over-the-counter. These medications are indicated to give monthly, year-round. Heartworms were previously considered to be a seasonal and/or geographic concern. However, research has shown that our current lifestyles often allow the mosquitoes that carry heartworms to survive through the winter in homes, thus creating a year-round risk for our pets. Heartworms, and the mosquitoes that transmit them, can live in much more varied geographic areas than previously thought. Heartworm cases have long been identified in all 48 continental states but are much more common in our area of the mid-west and southern states.

A map of heartworm incidence in the US

Noah’s Animal Hospitals follow the recommendations of The American Heartworm Society in recommending annual heartworm testing for dogs and year-round heartworm and parasite prevention for cats and dogs.

That’s right; don’t forget about your cat. Many cat owners are not aware that heartworms don’t affect just dogs. While dogs are the primary host infected with heartworms, cats can be infected too. Heartworm prevention is just as important for your feline friend…perhaps even more important as we do not have an FDA approved treatment for heartworm infection in cats.

That brings us to treatment for dogs. How do you know if your pet has been infected and what can be done to treat the infection? The first step is having your dog tested at least yearly as recommended. Should your dog unfortunately become infected, it is important to discuss treatment with your veterinarian thoroughly. However, treatment often involves the use of a series of injectable medications used to kill the adult heartworms living in your dog’s heart and blood vessels. Again, heartworms are completely preventable and prevention is much safer and easier for both you and your pet.

Noah’s Animal Hospitals wants to help protect your pet from heartworms. If you have any questions regarding heartworms, testing, prevention, or any other medical concern please call our talented and dedicated medical staff. We are here to be the best friend of your best friend.

Check out the links below for more heartworm information:

HeartwormSociety.org

CAPCvet.org

Wildlife 911

Written by Dr. Andrea Quigley

     Spring time is here, and with it comes spring fever, the birds and the bees...and the baby bunnies, baby squirrels, and baby birds.....


   I have been volunteering in wildlife rehabilitation centers since I was in college.  It is a rewarding experience that is unlike any other in veterinary medicine.  There are not many people in this world who have been licked by a woodpecker, raised then released litters of Eastern Cottontails, or released a bird of prey back into the wild after nursing it through an illness.  Currently, as the education director for Providence Wildlife Rehabilitation, I am able to provide educational programs to community organizations using permitted educational animals.  These critters are nonreleasable, native wildlife that have been given special permission to be kept as ambassadors of their species.  


   At the veterinary hospital, we often get calls from concerned citizens during this time of year regarding wildlife.  Adult wild animals are out cruising for mates and searching for food to feed hungry babies back at the nest, while the first litters of baby mammals and clutches of baby birds are just starting to explore the world around them.  Unfortunately, this makes for more human-wildlife, dog-wildlife, cat-wildlife and car-wildlife interaction.  

A flying squirrel

   First, I’d like to dispel some myths about baby wild animals.  As many of us know, the mother-baby bond is one of the strongest bonds there is.  This is true for wild animals as well.  Wild parents will return to care for a healthy baby, even if a human has touched it.  If a baby has fallen from its nest, and is warm and not injured, the best thing for that baby is to return it to the nest.  No human can possibly provide the same care and nutrition for that baby as its animal parents can.  

A fledgling

   What about those teenager birds hopping around that can’t fly?  Those birds are generally described as being covered in feathers, but with very short tails. They can flutter, sometimes even get a little bit of lift to land in a low shrub or fence, but can’t fly up into a tree.  These birds are referred to as fledglings.  They are learning to fly and have to put in “ground time” while they figure out how their wings work.  Their parents are always near by and will continue to feed them and protect them.  Do your best to keep cats and dogs away for a few days while these teenagers are still on the ground.  In a few days, they will be flying into the trees like pros!  


   We also hear from families concerned that a nest of baby Eastern Cottontail bunnies has been orphaned.  Before you make that phone call, first do a test: place two pieces of string crossed like the letter X on top of the nest.  The next morning, see if the string has been disturbed.  Mother rabbits only feed in the early dawn and late dusk.  The remainder of the day, the babies are hidden under a pile of grass, leaves and fur.  If the strings are undisturbed, then the babies need to be kept warm and immediately taken to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator, as they are likely orphaned. If the strings no longer make an X, mom has been by to feed her kids.  


   Did your dog’s or cat’s keen sense of smell find the nest before you did?  Any baby bunny that has been in a dog or cat’s mouth is susceptible to infection and should also be taken immediately to a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.  Fortunately, baby bunnies grow up quickly.  If you found the nest before your pet, you’ll need to keep your pet away from the nest for 2-3 weeks.  After that, the babies are weaned and should be baseball sized balls of fluff scurrying around your yard!    


A litter of cottontail bunnies

If you do find an injured or truly orphaned wild animal, follow these recommendations:

1. Safety first!  Do not handle a wild mammal that is acting aggressively.  While we rarely have reported cases of rabies in most species of wild mammals in Indiana, any mammal can carry rabies.  Bats, skunks and fox are the most common culprits in our state. 

2. Before you attempt to capture a wild animal, have everything you’re going to use ready and at hand.  This should include leather gloves and an appropriately sized container with air holes and a secure lid!  I have hunted down many a wild animal that was dropped off without a secure lid.  The phrase "wild goose chase" comes to mind.  Once you’ve collected everything you need, call a licensed wildlife rehabilitator.  

3. Keep the animal warm.  If it is an orphaned baby, it may be too cold.  Wild babies should feel warm to the touch.  

4. Do not offer food or water, unless your rehabilitator has instructed you to provide it. 

5. Remember that state and federal laws protect native wild species.  In many instances you have only 24 hours to transport this wild creature to a licensed rehabilitator.  

6. Enjoy the wildlife in your community.  It is such a privilege to be able to see the daily goings on in these animals’ otherwise rather private lives!

Baby fox squirrel nursing in a rehabilitation center

A Feline Friendly Home

Dr. Kristin Horazy

 

Ancestors of today’s domestic cats initially served as rodent hunters in small settlements at the dawn of agriculture.  Because of their usefulness, they were gradually assimilated into human society, unlike domestic dogs, who were selectively bred for desirable traits by humans.  Therefore, the domestication of cats hasn’t resulted in major genetic changes, so the form and behavior of house cats is not radically different from wild cats.  Both wild and domestic cats are solitary hunters of small prey, and as such, have specific needs different than those of dogs.  Cat owners need to be well-informed about the behavioral idiosyncrasies of cats in order to allow outlets for their “wild behavior” and make the indoor environment as stress-free as possible.  Following are some suggestions about how to make your home “cat friendly.”

Litter Boxes

An open, clean litterbox.

     When cats go to the bathroom indoors, it is important to provide them with a positive litter box experience.   A good rule of thumb is to provide one litter box per cat PLUS ONE, so there are different options for elimination.  The box should be big enough to move around in and to avoid stepping in previous eliminations.  Uncovered boxes are preferable in a multi-cat household, so there is always a way to escape if another cat comes up to the box.

     Research has shown that most kitties prefer unscented clumping litter (not clay).  However, it is more important to stick with whatever type of litter your cat prefers, as switching abruptly can result in litter box aversion.

     Litter boxes should be easy to access, but also provide privacy and an escape route if needed.  They should be located away from furnaces, air ducts, or other noisy appliances that can make sudden loud noises, which may startle your cat.

     Cats are a meticulously clean species, so litter boxes should be scooped daily!  If you find the odor of the box offensive, your cat probably does too!  The boxes should be emptied out and rinsed at least monthly.  Only use warm water and non-scented soap, as strongly-scented cleaners can be toxic or aversive.

Scratching

     Scratching is natural marking behavior used by cats in the wild to define their territory and announce their presence.  Scratching also helps to shed old cuticles and sharpen the claws.  Even declawed cats still retain the instinct to scratch. 

     Most cats prefer a rough material that shreds, such as sisal, cardboard, or carpet.  Some cats prefer to scratch on horizontal surfaces (carpets, rugs), while other prefer vertical surfaces.  You can experiment to figure out what types of objects your cat most likes to scratch.  There are a variety of different scratching posts available at most pet supply stores.

     Because cats scratch to mark their territory, they like to scratch in prominent places in the house.  Make sure you place your scratching posts in areas where people or cats tend to congregate, such as the TV room where the family spends a lot of time.  Do not try and hide the post in a far away corner or tucked behind furniture – your cat may not want to use it.

     You can train your cat to the post by placing it right next to the area where they already like to scratch and covering the inappropriate object with tinfoil or plastic carpet runners.  Posts that have a catnip toy built-in on top can be useful in attracting the cat to the post.  Once you have the cat using the post consistently, you can gradually move it a few inches every day to a suitable location. 

Catnip can be grown in your home garden, or purchased dried at a pet store.

  

Resting Areas

 

     Cats prefer to rest in safe, secure areas where they can get away from other people and pets.  They also need these safe areas when they are anxious about strange people or animals and loud noises.   Therefore, it is important to provide a refuge for your cat – an out-of-the-way area of the house where the cat has access to its essentials (food, water, litter box, etc).  You can place a comfy cat bed or folded towels in the area as well.  It is important to not disturb your cat when she is resting or hiding!

Perches

     As mentioned above, cats like to hide when they feel anxious or threatened.  They especially like to hide in high places, where they can get a clear view of their surroundings and where other people and/or animals can’t get to them.

     To help with this behavior, it is important that every cat have a perch somewhere in the house where they can view action indoors or outdoors from above.  This can be as fancy as a big store bought cat tower with multiple levels or as simple as a chair or table in front of a window.  You could even hang a bird feeder outside the window to attract birds or squirrels to keep your cat interested.

Toys

     The ancestors of domestic cats had to hunt insects, birds, and mice 10-20 times per day in order to survive.  Our indoor cats no longer have to hunt, but still retain the instinct to pounce and stalk.  Cats tend to like toys that mimic prey that they might hunt in the wild – toys that squeak, dangle, or dart.   You can determine your cat’s prey preference by buying several toys that resemble birds (toys with feathers or that are suspended in the air), mice (furry stuffed toys), and bugs (laser toy, a string with a knot on the end). 

      Alternate playing with each type of toy and see which type your cat responds to most.  Once you determine your cat’s prey preference, keep a batch of that type of toy and rotate them a few at a time to keep things interesting.

 

Pets Need Dental Care, Too!!

Pets Need Dental Care, Too!

            Did you know your pet needs regular dental care for a healthy, happy life?  This time of year, veterinarians across the country work together to get pet owners the information you need to prevent severe dental problems. 

            By the age of 3 years, 80% of dogs and cats have developed early to moderate stages of dental disease.  Usually the first symptom of a dental problem is bad breath.  This is often followed by more serious problems such as the development of yellow plaque along the gumline, swollen and red gums that may bleed, pain in the mouth, and a decreased appetite or aversion to hard food.  In the final stages of dental disease, known as periodontal disease, infection causes loss of bone around the tooth roots, which causes the teeth to become loose and fall out.  This condition is painful for pets.  The infection associated with periodontal disease can also spread to other organs in the body such as the heart and kidneys, potentially causing life-threatening problems.

Severe periodontal disease in a dog.  Don't wait this long for dental care in your pet!

            The good news is that severe dental disease in pets is preventable!  Through proper anesthetized dental cleanings and home dental care, you can keep your pet’s smile healthy!

Dental Home Care

             Without a doubt, the best way to keep your pet’s teeth healthy at home is by daily brushing.  Most pet owners do not brush their pet’s teeth.  However, taking time to brush your pet’s teeth every day can save you hundreds to thousands of dollars in dental care for your pet!

            It is always best to introduce your pets to the tooth brushing process when they are young, preferably during puppy and kittenhood.  Many tools are available to help you with this process!  Long and short toothbrushes, fingerbrushes, and pet safe toothpastes in a variety of flavors are at your disposal.  Make this process a positive one, by providing your pet plenty of praise and treats while you learn how to brush their teeth together!  If you need assistance with this process, our knowledgeable and dedicated Noah’s veterinarians and veterinary technicians would be happy to give you some pointers.

VOHC Seal of Approval

            Though nothing replaces the benefits of tooth brushing for your pet, other resources are available to help with dental health!  Be wary, however, of the claim of some products to prevent plaque and tartar buildup in your pet.  Look for products with a seal from the Veterinary Oral Health Council!  The VOHC tests pet dental products, and awards their seal only to those products with a proven track record. 

            At Noah’s Animal Hospitals, our favorite products are Hill’s Science Diet Prescription t/d food, and Tartar Shield Soft Rawhide Chews – both VOHC approved, of course!  These products are readily available for purchase at all of our Noah’s locations.

Anesthetized Dental Care

            Once your pet develops plaque, tartar, gingivitis (gum disease), or loose or fractured teeth, simple tooth brushing at home is no longer effective at resolving the problem.  At this point, your pet requires a full, anesthetized mouth examination, with proper dental scaling and polishing.  In some cases, dental x-rays and removal of diseased teeth is necessary. 

Usually, the full extent of disease in your pet’s mouth cannot be evaluated until the teeth are cleaned of calculus, and the oral exam is completed.  This is because tooth disease can hide beneath the calculus, and beneath the gumline.  Once the full oral exam is completed, if unexpected disease is found, your Noah’s doctor will call you with an update and recommendations regarding further treatment for your pet.  Below are pictures of a canine patient before and after a much needed dental cleaning!

Many owners are hesitant to pursue proper scaling and polishing of their pet’s teeth due to the need for anesthesia.  We understand your concerns, and make every effort to provide a safe anesthetic experience for your pet.  However, anesthesia is absolutely essential to perform a thorough job in your pet’s mouth!  Unfortunately, pets will not sit or lay still for even a simple dental cleaning as we humans will!  To effectively clean the bacteria from the mouth, our scaling instruments must clean beneath the gumline, which is painful, especially if gingivitis is present.  Our dental equipment is very similar to the equipment used by your dentist, which means it is loud and frightens pets.  The tartar and calculus may be inhaled as they are scaled away, and anesthesia with a tube in the airway prevents this from happening.  Lastly, removal of teeth if necessary is a painful process, and requires anesthesia and appropriate pain control.

Every Noah’s patient is evaluated for anesthesia with a full physical examination, and the anesthesia protocol is tailored individually for each pet.  Bloodwork to assess organ function, blood counts, and clotting times is often recommended to determine the safety of anesthesia medications.  Increased anesthesia risks may arise with the age of your pet or any chronic disease your pet may have.  Your Noah’s doctor will discuss any increased risks with you prior to the procedure.  Additional testing may be recommended prior to anesthesia for your pet, on a case by case basis.  As always, if you have any questions or concerns about this process, ask to speak with your Noah’s doctor.

Some of our clients have seen advertising for “anesthesia free” pet dentistry.  “Anesthesia free” dentistry is a disservice to you and your pet.  Appropriate cleaning beneath the gumline cannot be achieved when your pet is stressed and moving.  If the area under the gumline is not thoroughly cleaned, tartar recurs immediately and infection around the toothroots is more likely to occur.  In addition, in the awake pet, tartar and calculus that is scaled off may be inhaled into the lungs, leading to a serious lung infection.  This service is neither safe nor effective for your pet!

Dental Special Month!

            From now through March 16^th, Noah’s Animal Hospitals are featuring our annual Dental Special Month!  (OK, it’s longer than 1 month, but we are the generous type!)  If your pet receives a dental cleaning during our special, he or she will go home with a FREE bag of Hill’s Prescription diet t/d OR Hill’s Healthy Advantage food!  Other promotional deals may be available during this time.  Call your Noah’s Animal Hospital today to schedule an appointment!